FoodZine:
Our section devoted to the best in dining before or after the theater
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| The facade of Brasilina, New York's newest Brazilian restaurant in Hell's Kitchen, near the theater district. Photo: Courtesy of Brasilina |
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| Brasilina is a great place to have authentic Brazilian food and a tasty 'caipirinha' before or after the theater. Photo: Courtesy of Brasilina |
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| Brasilina features traditional Brazilian cuisine, a mixture of Portuguese, native South American and African influences. Photo: Courtesy of Brasilina |
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Restaurant Review
Brasilina: An authentic taste of Brazil in NY
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By Scott Harrah
Brasilina, New York's newest Brazilian restaurant, is a little bit of São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro in Midtown Manhattan (Hell's Kitchen, to be exact, close the to the theater district). It is the perfect, upscale place to stop by for traditional Brazilian cuisine and a tasty, potent caipirinha cocktail before or after a show.
The caipirinha (pronounced "kai-pur-EEN-ya") is Brazil's national cocktail, made with cachaça (clear sugarcane rum, pronounced "ka-SHA-sa"), sugar (usually white powdered sugar or honey) and lime, and few Brazilian restaurants and bars in New York can make the drink as authentic as Brasilina does. Brasilina makes a delicious Caipirinha Mulata, with lots of crushed ice, muddled limes, lemon juice and rapadura (Brazilian dry molasses) that is the perfect complement to the premium Beleza de Minas Silver cachaça.
Another specialty cocktail at Brasilina is the Whiskey and Honey. As one of the owners, Daniel Bull, explains, "This is very well appreciated for [everyone from] whiskey drinkers to people who don't like whiskey."
The drink's added ingredients include lemon juice, Brazilian dry molasses, egg white (to give it some foam), and Jack Daniels infused with honey.
Anyone who has ever visited Brazil can attest that the South American country, like the United States, is a cultural melting pot, and its multi-ethnic influence is especially evident in the nation's one-of-a-kind cuisine. Traditional Brazilian fare fuses fresh seafood with a Portuguese flair, pork, beef, various stews, bread, fritters, and much more, with many African and native Brazilian influences (spices, local vegetables, fruits, etc.) from the long-gone colonial era, particularly in Bahia in the North of Brazil.
At Brasilina, diners are treated to an assortment of breads, including some unique, crispy variations one will not find in American restaurants. For an appetizer, opt for the outstanding palitos de tapioca (fried tapioca fritters with a spicy agave dipping sauce). Even if one is not a fan of tapioca, it is hard to resist these crunchy little balls of bliss that melt in your mouth.
The seafood appetizers are especially delicious. The ceviche de vieiras is a slightly spicy dish of fresh, citrusy scallops pickled with red onions and bloody Mary dices, and served with French baguette toasts. The tartar de salmon is a scrumptious salmon tartar with avocado cream, wasabi Chantilly and crispy shallots.
For the main course, opt for the moqueca, a traditional seafood stew from the North of Brazil but made in a lighter version to satisfy American palates. Served boiling hot in a clay bowl, with jasmine rice, the dish features bits of fresh cod and shrimp and pirão (Brazilian fish gravy).
Meat lovers will appreciate the scrumptious costela assada, slowly cooked short ribs with "two roots puree" and okra tempura. The short ribs are extremely tender.
Brasilina also offers a 12-ounce New York Steak with potato surprise and haricot vert, and a 16-ounce rib eye steak served with mache salad and house rustic potatoes. In addition, an assortment of pastas is available, including one made with yucca gnocchi, Brazilian beef jerky and béchamel gratin, and another featuring citric shrimp and lobster risotto.
For dessert, try the bolo quente de chocolate, a Valrhona chocolate molten cake, served with a sinfully sweet cupuaçu crème anglais (a savory white dipping sauce). There is also the Cheesecake Romeo & Julieta, a nice combination of American classic cheesecake with the exotic Brazilian fruit guava. These desserts go beautifully with a cup of Brasilina's strong coffee.
A former boutique operator from Brazil, Silvanei Silveira owns Brasilina with her two grown children, Daniel and Mariana. Daniel doubles as manager and executive bartender, making Brasilina's signature caipirinhas, while Mariana is executive chef, and a Culinary Institute graduate.
As designed by Silvanei and Daniel, Brasilina has an urban yet rustic look: the space has hardwood floors, exposed brick walls, high ceilings, and is adorned with numerous curios and candles. Soft colors and dim lights round out the ambience, making Brasilina a serene place to savor great food and drinks near the theater district, or simply a unique new hotspot to visit on a night out to enjoy great Brazilian cuisine and drinks with friends and family.
Brasilina has only been open about one month, and will soon start serving lunch. Even if one does not have time for a full-course dinner before or after the theater, Brasilina is worth visiting for the cocktails alone. The bar is a mixology bar, with a bar menu created by Brazilian mixologist Marcio Silva, who has served caipirinhas and other Brazilian cocktails in both South America and London.
Published December 18, 2011
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